Felipe Oliveira Baptista had a nice debut at Lacoste this morning with a collection that featured women’s looks largely based on rugby shirts, some cool outerwear pieces and, for men, a larger-than-usual piqué used on blazers and polo shirts that looked nice and breathable. Mr. Baptista, who is Portuguese by birth, shows his own line in Paris and took over Lacoste this season from Chistophe Lemaire, who scooted over to Hermès.
I can’t say the Lacoste collection was a shocking change from one designer to the next, but that’s probably because the label’s brand identity is so well established that anyone who approaches it is going to start thinking about energy, optimism, sport and preppy colors. One thing that stood out about Mr. Baptista’s show was that he started with a more neutral palette to make it feel “slightly urban,” he said, and then added pops of color here and there, like a blue men’s blazer, or a blue viscose and silk piqué minidress that had a loose fold of fabric draped at the back. His spring outerwear pieces also looked great, with several short Macs, for both sexes, trimmed with leather details.
“I grew up with Lacoste,” Mr. Baptista said. “It was a very big challenge to go and work with a brand that is so worldwide and enormous. I wanted to make things simple, but simple that doesn’t mean boring.”By ERIC WILSON With courtesy of the New York Times
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